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October/November 2013

Egg Noodles

What makes the best egg noodles? The right shape, right amount of fat, and right type of flour.

How We Tested

Egg noodles are the starchy soul of many of our favorite comfort foods. For beef stroganoff, goulash, tuna noodle casserole, and chicken noodle soup, we use them to anchor gravy, transport sauce, and add bulk to soup. The noodles should taste lightly wheaty, like traditional pasta, but with a richer flavor that comes from eggs in the pasta dough.

The last time we evaluated egg noodles, we found so many “bland” and “gummy” examples that we could recommend just two products. To see if our options have improved, we surveyed supermarket shelves and selected seven products to taste. We chose those that were widely available, and if the company offered multiple shapes, we focused on noodles labeled “wide” or “broad,” as these are the most common type and what we typically call for in our recipes.

The egg noodle market has significantly improved, and we can recommend five of seven products. Of the other two, one was so-so; it contained only egg whites, no yolks, so it lacked flavor. The second was a frozen egg noodle that was very different from the others—short, straight, thick, and dumplinglike; tasters found it gummy.

Among the five products that we enjoyed, one stood out for being “­buttery,” “al dente” noodles in just the right shape. Since tasters liked their rich flavor, we compared the fat ­content among products. It ranged from 1 gram to 3 grams per 2-ounce serving, and sure enough, our winning product had the most. Egg noodles have two primary ingredients: flour and eggs. So most of the fat is derived from the eggs, specifically the yolks. We inferred that with 3 grams of fat per serving, our winning noodles had the highest ratio of egg yolks, which imparted the winning rich flavor.

Rich, eggy flavor was a huge plus, but our winning noodles also stood out for their firm, chewy bite. The primary ingredient in every product was wheat flour, but three different kinds were used: standard wheat flour, durum flour, and semolina. The product with standard wheat flour was soft and gummy. The other two flours are both made from ground durum wheat, a high-protein variety that’s often used in pasta because it develops more gluten, which helps noodles maintain their springy texture during cooking. The durum flour is finely ground, while semolina is coarser, and this difference was the key to our winner’s resilient texture: The finer grains of durum flour break down more easily when cooked, so noodles turn mushy faster. Products at the top of our lineup use semolina.

One final factor explained our preferences: noodle shape, which ranged from broad pappardelle-like planks to short, narrow corkscrews; manufacturers interpreted the word “wide” in a variety of ways, as the industry does not have size standards. The optimal shape was somewhere in between. Tasters didn’t like chasing thin noodles around their plates, and long flat noodles were unwieldy in soup, where they wiggled off our spoons, flicking broth in our faces. The most versatile shape was a wide corkscrew that was easy to spear with a fork yet short enough to be scooped up with a spoon. Four products offered this shape, including our winner.

We’re glad to see that the egg noodle market has improved and are even happier that one brand was so good. We found these noodles rich and eggy, with the perfect tender chew and a versatile shape that works equally well as pasta and in soup. Our winner beat a strong lineup to take the top spot. We’ll be sure to choose them when available, but if they aren’t sold at our supermarket, we’re confident that we can find an alternative that’s almost as good.

Methodology

Twenty-one tasters evaluated each product twice, first cooked plain in lightly salted water and then tossed with a neutral-flavored oil to prevent sticking, and next in chicken noodle soup. We tabulated the results and were happily surprised: The egg noodle market has significantly improved, and we can recommend five of seven products.

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The Results

Winner
Recommended

Design Trifecta 360 Knife Block

Admittedly expensive, this handsome block certainly seemed to live up to its billing as “the last knife block you ever have to buy.” The heaviest model in our testing, this block was ultrastable, and its durable bamboo exterior was a breeze to clean. Well-placed medium-strength magnets made it easy to attach all our knives, and a rotating base gave us quick access to them. One tiny quibble: The blade of our 12-inch slicing knife stuck out a little

Winner
Recommended

Lodge Classic Cast Iron Skillet, 12"

Our old winner arrived with the slickest preseasoned interior and only got better. Broad enough to cook two big steaks, it browned foods deeply, and its thorough seasoning ensured that our acidic pan sauce picked up no off-flavors. Though its handle is short, the pan has a helper handle that made lifting easy. It survived abuse testing without a scratch. An excellent pan, at an excellent price, that you’ll never have to replace.

Lodge Classic Cast Iron Skillet, 12"

Our old winner arrived with the slickest preseasoned interior and only got better. Broad enough to cook two big steaks, it browned foods deeply, and its thorough seasoning ensured that our acidic pan sauce picked up no off-flavors. Though its handle is short, the pan has a helper handle that made lifting easy. It survived abuse testing without a scratch. An excellent pan, at an excellent price, that you’ll never have to replace.

Winner
Recommended

Lodge Classic Cast Iron Skillet, 12"

Our old winner arrived with the slickest preseasoned interior and only got better. Broad enough to cook two big steaks, it browned foods deeply, and its thorough seasoning ensured that our acidic pan sauce picked up no off-flavors. Though its handle is short, the pan has a helper handle that made lifting easy. It survived abuse testing without a scratch. An excellent pan, at an excellent price, that you’ll never have to replace.

Lodge Classic Cast Iron Skillet, 12"

Our old winner arrived with the slickest preseasoned interior and only got better. Broad enough to cook two big steaks, it browned foods deeply, and its thorough seasoning ensured that our acidic pan sauce picked up no off-flavors. Though its handle is short, the pan has a helper handle that made lifting easy. It survived abuse testing without a scratch. An excellent pan, at an excellent price, that you’ll never have to replace.

Winner
Recommended

Lodge Classic Cast Iron Skillet, 12"

Our old winner arrived with the slickest preseasoned interior and only got better. Broad enough to cook two big steaks, it browned foods deeply, and its thorough seasoning ensured that our acidic pan sauce picked up no off-flavors. Though its handle is short, the pan has a helper handle that made lifting easy. It survived abuse testing without a scratch. An excellent pan, at an excellent price, that you’ll never have to replace.

Lodge Classic Cast Iron Skillet, 12"

Our old winner arrived with the slickest preseasoned interior and only got better. Broad enough to cook two big steaks, it browned foods deeply, and its thorough seasoning ensured that our acidic pan sauce picked up no off-flavors. Though its handle is short, the pan has a helper handle that made lifting easy. It survived abuse testing without a scratch. An excellent pan, at an excellent price, that you’ll never have to replace.

Winner
Recommended

Lodge Classic Cast Iron Skillet, 12"

Our old winner arrived with the slickest preseasoned interior and only got better. Broad enough to cook two big steaks, it browned foods deeply, and its thorough seasoning ensured that our acidic pan sauce picked up no off-flavors. Though its handle is short, the pan has a helper handle that made lifting easy. It survived abuse testing without a scratch. An excellent pan, at an excellent price, that you’ll never have to replace.

Lodge Classic Cast Iron Skillet, 12"

Our old winner arrived with the slickest preseasoned interior and only got better. Broad enough to cook two big steaks, it browned foods deeply, and its thorough seasoning ensured that our acidic pan sauce picked up no off-flavors. Though its handle is short, the pan has a helper handle that made lifting easy. It survived abuse testing without a scratch. An excellent pan, at an excellent price, that you’ll never have to replace.