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August/September 2017

Chocolate Ice Cream

Ice cream flavors abound, but chocolate remains a perennial favorite. We wanted to find out which chocolate ice cream reigns supreme.

How We Tested

There’s little more satisfying than a scoop (or two) of chocolate ice cream—but which one should you buy? Since our former winner from Ben & Jerry’s is no longer being sold in supermarkets, and because in 2016 Nestlé reformulated two of the ice creams included in that tasting—Edy’s Chocolate Ice Cream and Edy’s Slow Churned Chocolate, we decided it was time to retest. To find the best chocolate ice cream, we gathered seven nationally available products and asked 21 tasters to sample them plain and in mini ice cream cones.

As we were tabulating our results, it became clear that texture was as important as flavor to our tasting panel, so we reached out to industry experts to better understand what influences an ice cream’s texture. The first factor we looked at was air, which is churned into ice cream to increase volume (the churning itself helps reduce ice crystals—and the manufacturer’s bottom line).

The amount of air added is called “overrun,” and it’s expressed as a percentage: 100 percent overrun means there are equal volumes of liquid/solid ingredients and air (or, to put it another way, that the original ingredients are “inflated” with air to double their original volume). Federal regulations don’t address overrun percentages for products to be labeled ice creams, but they do stipulate that 1 gallon of ice cream must weigh 4½ pounds. With everything else being equal, high overrun translates into light, airy, mass market–style ice cream, and low overrun makes dense, premium-style ice cream. But clearly everything else is not equal, as our winner had the second-highest overrun in our lineup, at 103 percent, yet was perceived as “creamy” and “silky” in texture. What’s going on inside ice cream factories?

It turns out that manufacturers employ certain methods to offset the fluffy, light texture that is naturally the result of high overrun. Our winning ice cream, for example, uses corn syrup (instead of sugar) as its primary sweetener. Corn syrup, our experts explained, is thicker and less sweet than sugar; its viscosity contributes a smooth, creamy texture and great body, all without making the ice cream taste too sweet. Our winner wasn’t as dense as low-overrun premium ice cream, but it had a great “velvety” texture that wasn’t overly airy. Another high-overrun ice cream uses buttermilk, tapioca starch, and pectin to help mask the airiness of its whopping 112-percent overrun. Dr. H. Douglas Goff, a professor in the Department of Food Science at the University of Guelph in Ontario, explained, “These ingredients would all add viscosity and body to the ice cream, also referred to as ‘mouthfeel’ or ‘chew resistance.’ They would all make it seem less airy or fluffy or marshmallow-y.” This ice cream was also the only “slow-churned” product in our lineup, and it had by far the fewest calories and least fat. Our ice cream experts confirmed that “slow-churned” is an industry euphemism for “light” ice cream— so it makes sense that such a product would have a high proportion of air (and thus fewer calories by volume).

Chocolate flavor was important, too. Even though all the ice creams we tasted used cocoa powder as their sole source of chocolate flavor, our lineup ran the gamut from mellow milk-chocolate taste to intense bittersweet-chocolate taste. What accounted for the differences? Cocoa is naturally acidic, so it is often alkalized, or “Dutched,” to neutralize astringent notes and round out the chocolate flavor. Dr. Goff explained that the degree to which a cocoa powder has been Dutched would strongly affect the intensity of the ice cream’s chocolate flavor. Manufacturers wouldn’t disclose details about their cocoa powders, including the degrees of alkalization, but we found that we liked products with a range of chocolate intensities—from mild to dark and rich—as long as they were balanced and not too bitter.

While tasters enjoyed most of the ice creams in our lineup, our winning ice cream, Turkey Hill Premium Dutch Chocolate Ice Cream, had a broadly appealing milk-chocolate flavor and smooth-as-silk texture, which tasters described as “really creamy” and “velvety.” It was also the least expensive product in our lineup ($2.99 for 1.5 quarts), making it even more enticing.

Methodology

Twenty-one America’s Test Kitchen staffers sampled seven nationally available chocolate ice creams, tasting each one plain and in a mini ice cream cone. We averaged the scores and listed the products in order of preference. We purchased six of the ice creams in Boston-area supermarkets, and we ordered Blue Bell Dutch Chocolate Ice Cream online. Overrun percentages were calculated by an independent labatory. Ingredient lists were taken from product labels as were volume measurements (some of which we had to convert from quarts to fluid ounces). All nutritional information was taken from product labels and is per 1/2-cup serving size. We calculated cost per fluid ounce.

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The Results

Note: Cook's Country continuously updates our equipment reviews and taste tests. The written content below is the most up-to-date information available and may not match what appears in the video segment.

Winner
Recommended

Turkey Hill Premium Dutch Chocolate Ice Cream

$2.99 for 1.5 qt ($0.06 per fl oz)*

Turkey Hill Premium Dutch Chocolate Ice Cream

Tasters raved about this ice cream’s “fabulous” texture, which was “creamy,” “very smooth” and “velvety.” It boasted an “accessible” “milk chocolate” flavor with a “great aftertaste.” The combination of “silky” texture and “friendly” chocolate flavor proved irresistible.

More Details
$2.99 for 1.5 qt ($0.06 per fl oz)*
Recommended

Breyers Chocolate Ice Cream

$4.99 for 1.5 qt ($0.10 per fl oz)*

Breyers Chocolate Ice Cream

This ice cream’s “very chocolaty” flavor was the “perfect balance between sweet and bitter,” and tasters could “definitely taste the chocolate coming through.” This product seemed “a bit airy,” but ultimately its “clean chocolate richness” and “delicious aftertaste” earned it high marks.

More Details
$4.99 for 1.5 qt ($0.10 per fl oz)*

Edy’s Chocolate Ice Cream (sold as Dreyer’s Chocolate Ice Cream in the western United States and Texas)

$5.99 for 1.5 qt ($0.12 per fl oz)*

Edy’s Chocolate Ice Cream (sold as Dreyer’s Chocolate Ice Cream in the western United States and Texas)

Tasters favored this “pleasantly light” and “frothy” ice cream for its “robust,” “deep dark chocolate flavor” and “smooth texture.” They thought it had “the right amount of sweetness,” which made it “very enjoyable.”

More Details
$5.99 for 1.5 qt ($0.12 per fl oz)*

Häagen-Dazs Chocolate Ice Cream

$3.99 for 14 fl oz ($0.29 per fl oz)*

Häagen-Dazs Chocolate Ice Cream

This “delicate” ice cream had a “mild” chocolate flavor with a “nice balance of chocolate and sweetness.” Tasters also commended this “soft serve”–like product’s “creamy” texture that had only the “barest hint of graininess.”

More Details
$3.99 for 14 fl oz ($0.29 per fl oz)*

Edy’s Slow Churned Simple Recipes Chocolate (also sold as Dreyer’s Slow Churned Simple Recipes Chocolate)

$5.99 for 1.5 qt ($0.12 per fl oz)*

Edy’s Slow Churned Simple Recipes Chocolate (also sold as Dreyer’s Slow Churned Simple Recipes Chocolate)

Nonfat milk, cane sugar, cream, cocoa, buttermilk, tapioca starch, guar gum, pectin, natural flavor Comments: Tasters liked this “very creamy” and “smooth yet airy” ice cream’s “deep chocolaty flavor.” One taster noted that “it might even be double chocolate or a gelato” because of its “dark cocoa” flavor and “rich” finish.

More Details
$5.99 for 1.5 qt ($0.12 per fl oz)*
Recommended with Reservations

Blue Bell Dutch Chocolate Ice Cream

$7.89 for 2 qt ($0.12 per fl oz)*

Blue Bell Dutch Chocolate Ice Cream

This ice cream tasted “like delightfully frozen chocolate milk” and felt “very light on the tongue” to some tasters, but others though this product was “low on chocolate flavor” and seemed “more milky than chocolaty.” The “light cocoa” and “milk chocolate” flavor and “icy texture” made for a “sweet and smooth” ice cream.

More Details
$7.89 for 2 qt ($0.12 per fl oz)*

Friendly’s Rich & Creamy Forbidden Chocolate Ice Cream

$4.99 for 1.5 qt ($0.10 per fl oz)*

Friendly’s Rich & Creamy Forbidden Chocolate Ice Cream

Tasters noted this product’s “very deep,” “intensely chocolaty” flavor, which one panelist considered the “darkest of the bunch.” While some thought the “really rich chocolate flavor” was “sophisticated,” others found it “bitter” and “metallic.” And the “whipped and fluffy” texture registered as “a little too airy” for some.

More Details
$4.99 for 1.5 qt ($0.10 per fl oz)*
Done in 281 ms! 61.385 KiB - 7.5% = 56.776 KiB