Creamed onions, a holiday mainstay, seem to have lost respect. We’d restore their honor by developing a recipe that was neither sour nor bland.
Why This Recipe Works
The problem with creamed onions (small white onions in a creamy sauce) is that they’re often underseasoned, slippery “boiling” onions the size of golf balls, bobbing in a pasty, gloppy sauce. To compound the problem, blanching and peeling fresh onions is a laborious process. We simmered frozen pearl onions in chicken broth and sherry to add flavor. Then we thickened a simple dairy-based sauce with cornstarch for silky texture and balanced earthy nutmeg—a classic in cream sauces—with bright chives and a squeeze of lemon juice.