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Bean Basics

Canned beans are convenient, but in many recipes (particularly those with long cooking times) we prefer to use dried beans. Here's how we ensure perfectly cooked beans every time.

Canned beans are convenient, but in many recipes (particularly those with long cooking times) we prefer to use dried beans. Here's how we ensure perfectly cooked beans every time.

PICK THROUGH : Presoaking beans can knock 30 minutes or so off of their cooking time, but, despite what many cookbooks say, it is not a necessary step. What is necessary, however, is picking through the beans before cooking to check for loose stones. Just one small stone is enough to spoil an otherwise perfectly good bowl of Red Beans and Rice. To spot and remove stones before cooking, spread the beans on a white plate or a cutting board.

GET THE RIGHT RATIO: For evenly cooked beans, use 5 quarts of water per pound of dried beans. This gives the beans plenty of room and ensures that the water will not boil off as they cook.

SALT EARLY: Many recipes say not to salt beans until the last minute, but, in our opinion, that's too little too late and a surefire recipe for bland beans. Go ahead and add 2 1/2 teaspoons of salt (less if there are other salty ingredients, like chicken broth, in the pot) to the water along with the beans. As the beans cook they absorb the salted water and become more flavorful.

REDUCE AND SIMMER: Once you've brought the beans and water up to a boil, reduce the heat and cook the beans at a gentle simmer. A rolling boil will cook the beans unevenly and cause them to split open.

COVER AND SET: When it's time to take the beans out of the pot, we usually scoop out a few just to make sure they are all evenly cooked. If most of the beans are perfectly cooked but a few are lagging behind, don't turn up the heat. Instead, cover the pot and set it aside for a few minutes to let gentle residual heat soften the remaining beans without overcooking the others.

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