Thickeners
We regularly use dry thickeners to adjust the consistency of soups, sauces, pie fillings, and more. Here are the thickeners we stock in the test kitchen, along with notes on how we use them.
We regularly use dry thickeners to adjust the consistency of soups, sauces, pie fillings, and more. Here are the thickeners we stock in the test kitchen, along with notes on how we use them.
CORNSTARCH: Cornstarch is a common thickener for puddings, sauces, and soups. We also frequently incorporate cornstarch into the breading of fried foods to enhance crispness. When using it to thicken liquids, we first mix the cornstarch with cold or room-temperature water (or some of the liquid to be thickened) to form a slurry. If you skip this step, cornstarch will clump. Cornstarch loses its thickening ability with prolonged exposure to heat.
FLOUR: When flour is cooked in fat, it forms a roux—the base of many sauces, stews, and gravies. It is important to let the flour cook in the fat—with continual stirring—for a minute or two to eliminate the raw flour flavor. If the roux is cooked until the flour actually browns, the flour adds flavor to dishes (such as gumbo) but loses some thickening power. In any case, liquids added to the roux must be stirred in gradually for smooth incorporation and maximum thickening power.
GELATIN: Gelatin is a pure protein commonly derived from cows or pigs. To maximize its jelling power, powdered gelatin is typically allowed to swell (or “bloom”) in a small amount of cold liquid for five to 10 minutes before being used. Gelatin is often called on to thicken refrigerator pies and fruit desserts and is the basis for Jell-O products.
TAPIOCA: Tapioca is a starch extracted from cassava, a tropical root vegetable also known as manioc and yuca. In the test kitchen, we use neutral—flavored tapioca to thicken soups, stews, sauces, and desserts; it does not have to be mixed into a slurry before use. Tapioca can be problematic in lattice-topped pies, as granules can harden and become tough. Quick or Minute tapioca is finely ground and works faster than flakes or pearls.
PECTIN: This carbohydrate occurs naturally in various fruits and vegetables (but is most commonly harvested from apples and citrus) and is a standard thickener for jams, jellies, and preserves. Pectin must be used in conjunction with sugar and an acid (usually lemon juice) to reach its full thickening power, and thus is mostly used in jams and jellies.
