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November/December 2017

Tea Infusers

A good-quality infuser can mean the difference between a full-bodied brew and a cup of dishwater.

How We Tested

Tea infusers are great for making a single cup of loose-leaf tea. They come in several styles: sticks, balls, and baskets made of perforated metal or wire mesh. With each, you simply insert the amount of tea you want to use into the infuser, stick the infuser into a cup, and pour hot water over it. We wanted to know which tea infuser was best, so we bought nine models, priced from $5.96 to $16.95, and used them to brew herbal, white, green, and black teas.

The size of the infuser proved critical. The smaller the strainer, the harder it was to brew good, full-flavored tea. Some of the ball- and stick-style infusers weren’t big enough to hold a full 2- to 3-gram serving of tea leaves, particularly with the large-leafed white tea and fine, voluminous herbal tea. Even when we did manage to fit in most of these tea leaves, the smaller strainers let us down. Tea leaves need plenty of room to circulate in order to infuse the hot water properly. When they’re crammed into a small strainer, they don’t always get full exposure to the water and thus can’t expand and unfurl. In some of the smaller infusers, the leaves toward the center were packed so tightly that they didn’t even get wet, especially when brewing for shorter periods of time. The result in all these cases: wan, weak tea.

Smaller strainers were also fussier to fill and harder to clean. Accordingly, we liked larger strainers. To measure their volumes, we lined each with plastic wrap and filled it with water; we found that we strongly preferred models that held 10 tablespoons or more. In practice, this meant that we liked basket-style infusers, which had a number of other advantages in addition to their size. They had large openings of 2 inches or more in diameter, which facilitated filling and cleaning. And they had no fussy moving parts—some of the tea balls and sticks had tricky clasps or tops that were difficult to put on. Finally, they generally had more and smaller perforations than ball- and stick-style models, allowing water to enter and exit easily while preventing all but the tiniest particles of fine herbal tea from filtering out. (It wasn’t a deal breaker to have a few leaves of tea floating at the bottom of the cup, but most tasters preferred not to encounter detritus.)

Our winning tea infuser, the Finum Brewing Basket L ($9.95), is constructed of very tightly woven mesh that kept even the finest leaves out of the tea. It had the biggest capacity in our testing, equivalent to 13.5 tablespoons. And with a 2.5-inch opening, it was easy to fill and clean. As a bonus, it comes with a top that can also be used as a saucer, holding the basket and catching any drips after or between infusions.

Methodology

We tested nine tea infusers of different styles, priced from $5.96 to $16.95, using them to make herbal, white, green, and black teas and rating them on their ease of use and their performance. All models were purchased online, and they appear in order of preference.

EASE OF USE: We evaluated the infusers on how easy they were to open, close, fill, and clean and on how easily they held different volumes and sizes of tea leaves.

PERFORMANCE: We evaluated the infusers on how well they made tea, looking for full-flavored infusions with few or no tea leaves floating in them.

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The Results

Winner
Recommended

Design Trifecta 360 Knife Block

$33.31*

Design Trifecta 360 Knife Block

Admittedly expensive, this handsome block certainly seemed to live up to its billing as “the last knife block you ever have to buy.” The heaviest model in our testing, this block was ultrastable, and its durable bamboo exterior was a breeze to clean. Well-placed medium-strength magnets made it easy to attach all our knives, and a rotating base gave us quick access to them. One tiny quibble: The blade of our 12-inch slicing knife stuck out a little

Winner
Recommended

Lodge Classic Cast Iron Skillet, 12"

$33.31*

Lodge Classic Cast Iron Skillet, 12"

Our old winner arrived with the slickest preseasoned interior and only got better. Broad enough to cook two big steaks, it browned foods deeply, and its thorough seasoning ensured that our acidic pan sauce picked up no off-flavors. Though its handle is short, the pan has a helper handle that made lifting easy. It survived abuse testing without a scratch. An excellent pan, at an excellent price, that you’ll never have to replace.

Lodge Classic Cast Iron Skillet, 12"

$33.31*

Lodge Classic Cast Iron Skillet, 12"

Our old winner arrived with the slickest preseasoned interior and only got better. Broad enough to cook two big steaks, it browned foods deeply, and its thorough seasoning ensured that our acidic pan sauce picked up no off-flavors. Though its handle is short, the pan has a helper handle that made lifting easy. It survived abuse testing without a scratch. An excellent pan, at an excellent price, that you’ll never have to replace.

Winner
Recommended

Lodge Classic Cast Iron Skillet, 12"

$33.31*

Lodge Classic Cast Iron Skillet, 12"

Our old winner arrived with the slickest preseasoned interior and only got better. Broad enough to cook two big steaks, it browned foods deeply, and its thorough seasoning ensured that our acidic pan sauce picked up no off-flavors. Though its handle is short, the pan has a helper handle that made lifting easy. It survived abuse testing without a scratch. An excellent pan, at an excellent price, that you’ll never have to replace.

Lodge Classic Cast Iron Skillet, 12"

$33.31*

Lodge Classic Cast Iron Skillet, 12"

Our old winner arrived with the slickest preseasoned interior and only got better. Broad enough to cook two big steaks, it browned foods deeply, and its thorough seasoning ensured that our acidic pan sauce picked up no off-flavors. Though its handle is short, the pan has a helper handle that made lifting easy. It survived abuse testing without a scratch. An excellent pan, at an excellent price, that you’ll never have to replace.

Winner
Recommended

Lodge Classic Cast Iron Skillet, 12"

$33.31*

Lodge Classic Cast Iron Skillet, 12"

Our old winner arrived with the slickest preseasoned interior and only got better. Broad enough to cook two big steaks, it browned foods deeply, and its thorough seasoning ensured that our acidic pan sauce picked up no off-flavors. Though its handle is short, the pan has a helper handle that made lifting easy. It survived abuse testing without a scratch. An excellent pan, at an excellent price, that you’ll never have to replace.

Lodge Classic Cast Iron Skillet, 12"

$33.31*

Lodge Classic Cast Iron Skillet, 12"

Our old winner arrived with the slickest preseasoned interior and only got better. Broad enough to cook two big steaks, it browned foods deeply, and its thorough seasoning ensured that our acidic pan sauce picked up no off-flavors. Though its handle is short, the pan has a helper handle that made lifting easy. It survived abuse testing without a scratch. An excellent pan, at an excellent price, that you’ll never have to replace.

Winner
Recommended

Lodge Classic Cast Iron Skillet, 12"

$33.31*

Lodge Classic Cast Iron Skillet, 12"

Our old winner arrived with the slickest preseasoned interior and only got better. Broad enough to cook two big steaks, it browned foods deeply, and its thorough seasoning ensured that our acidic pan sauce picked up no off-flavors. Though its handle is short, the pan has a helper handle that made lifting easy. It survived abuse testing without a scratch. An excellent pan, at an excellent price, that you’ll never have to replace.

Lodge Classic Cast Iron Skillet, 12"

$33.31*

Lodge Classic Cast Iron Skillet, 12"

Our old winner arrived with the slickest preseasoned interior and only got better. Broad enough to cook two big steaks, it browned foods deeply, and its thorough seasoning ensured that our acidic pan sauce picked up no off-flavors. Though its handle is short, the pan has a helper handle that made lifting easy. It survived abuse testing without a scratch. An excellent pan, at an excellent price, that you’ll never have to replace.