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July/August 2016

Ice Cream Makers

Home ice cream makers are well worth the money and counter space—if you buy a good one.

How We Tested

A good electric ice cream maker makes it easy to produce customized ice cream, frozen yogurt, or sorbet at home. The machines come in two main styles: canister-style and self-refrigerating. The former has a removable coolant-lined canister that must be frozen before use. Self-refrigerating machines are generally much pricier, with built-in compressors that chill the canisters so there’s no need for prefreezing. When we discovered that the top self-refrigerating model from our 2010 testing had been discontinued, we knew it was time for an update. We rounded up six ice cream makers priced from about $34 to about $400: four canister-style (one of which was an attachment for our favorite KitchenAid stand mixer) and two self-refrigerating. We churned vanilla and coffee-crunch ice creams, raspberry sorbet, and frozen yogurt in each machine.

All ice cream makers work in a similar fashion. First, you make a loose dairy or fruit base and pour it into the machine. Then, through a combination of cooling and constant-yet-gentle churning, the machines transform the base into a thick, creamy dessert. The churning incorporates a small amount of air that is crucial to a smooth, semisoft consistency—without the air, the bases would freeze into hard bricks. Once the base has thickened to the consistency of a milkshake or soft-serve ice cream, it is transferred to a clean container and placed in the freezer for a brief firming-up period. Working quickly is crucial when churning and transferring the dessert to minimize the formation of large ice crystals and prevent accidental thawing.

Some of the machines required repeated intervention on the part of the user, while others were completely hands-off—and much of this came down to paddle design. The paddles came in a range of designs, with blades and bars designed to scrape the sides of the bowls while churning. Some had horizontal bars that spun just above the contents of the bowls; ice cream tended to clump up on these and ride around on top, forcing us to stop the ice cream makers every few minutes and push it back into the mixing action.

Another complaint: In the test kitchen, we gauge doneness with visual cues and by taking the temperature of the mixture. The tall horizontal blades got in the way of our thermometer probe, again forcing us to pause the machines. Since repeated disruptions to the cooling and churning process encourages the development of ice crystals, we much preferred paddle designs that allowed us access while the mixture churned.

When it came time to sample all the ice cream, frozen yogurt, and sorbet we’d made, we were pleasantly surprised to find that all of the samples ranged from good to great (since the machines don’t impact flavor, we were rating each product solely on texture). A few of the machines produced desserts that had more noticeable ice crystals, but the best models made frozen confections that were as smooth and creamy as commercial premium ice creams. All samples emerged from the freezer pleasantly dense and scoopable, neither too compact nor too airy, with mix-ins (when applicable) evenly distributed.

By the end of testing, we’d realized that each style of ice cream maker has inherent pros and cons. Both eat up counter space, with the canister-style machines having smaller footprints but requiring enough room in the freezer to freeze the canister—a step you have to remember to do 24 hours ahead. Canister-style machines also take less time to churn (averaging about 20 minutes versus about 35), but making consecutive batches requires purchasing and prefreezing additional bowls; self-refrigerating machines can keep going after pausing only to rinse and dry the bowl.

Our old Best Buy, the Cuisinart Frozen Yogurt, Ice Cream & Sorbet Maker ($53.99), again earned top marks among canister-style machines. Its frozen desserts scored highly in our blind tastings, it was very easy to use, and it was one of the quickest machines in our lineup. For ice cream fanatics who are willing to spend more for the ability to make consecutive batches, we recommend the Breville Smart Scoop ($399.94). It has a manual option and a range of automatic settings that create a truly hands-off, walk-away experience. No matter which you choose, you’ll be screaming not just for ice cream but for frozen yogurt and sorbet, too.

Methodology

We tested six ice cream makers, priced from about $34 to nearly $400. Models appear below in order of preference. Prices shown were paid online.

PERFORMANCE: We churned vanilla and coffee-crunch ice creams, raspberry sorbet, and frozen yogurt, using equal amounts of identical base. A panel of test cooks and editors evaluated the texture and overall appeal in a series of blind tastings, and we averaged the results. (Since the machines don’t impact flavor, we didn’t evaluate taste.) We preferred samples that were smooth, creamy, and devoid of noticeable ice crystals.

DESIGN: We weighed each machine and carried each across the kitchen, mimicking the experience of moving them out of storage and onto the counter. We preferred products that were relatively lightweight, maneuverable, and fit comfortably under cabinets.

EASE OF USE: We rated each machine on how easy and hands-off it was to operate. Models lost points if their bowls, lids, and paddles were difficult to lock into place or if they bumped and bounced during use. We preferred paddles that didn’t cause clumps to build up or push frozen desserts onto the rim of the bowl. We also preferred models that churned quickly.

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The Results

Winner
Recommended

Design Trifecta 360 Knife Block

$33.31*

Design Trifecta 360 Knife Block

Admittedly expensive, this handsome block certainly seemed to live up to its billing as “the last knife block you ever have to buy.” The heaviest model in our testing, this block was ultrastable, and its durable bamboo exterior was a breeze to clean. Well-placed medium-strength magnets made it easy to attach all our knives, and a rotating base gave us quick access to them. One tiny quibble: The blade of our 12-inch slicing knife stuck out a little

Winner
Recommended

Lodge Classic Cast Iron Skillet, 12"

$33.31*

Lodge Classic Cast Iron Skillet, 12"

Our old winner arrived with the slickest preseasoned interior and only got better. Broad enough to cook two big steaks, it browned foods deeply, and its thorough seasoning ensured that our acidic pan sauce picked up no off-flavors. Though its handle is short, the pan has a helper handle that made lifting easy. It survived abuse testing without a scratch. An excellent pan, at an excellent price, that you’ll never have to replace.

Lodge Classic Cast Iron Skillet, 12"

$33.31*

Lodge Classic Cast Iron Skillet, 12"

Our old winner arrived with the slickest preseasoned interior and only got better. Broad enough to cook two big steaks, it browned foods deeply, and its thorough seasoning ensured that our acidic pan sauce picked up no off-flavors. Though its handle is short, the pan has a helper handle that made lifting easy. It survived abuse testing without a scratch. An excellent pan, at an excellent price, that you’ll never have to replace.

Winner
Recommended

Lodge Classic Cast Iron Skillet, 12"

$33.31*

Lodge Classic Cast Iron Skillet, 12"

Our old winner arrived with the slickest preseasoned interior and only got better. Broad enough to cook two big steaks, it browned foods deeply, and its thorough seasoning ensured that our acidic pan sauce picked up no off-flavors. Though its handle is short, the pan has a helper handle that made lifting easy. It survived abuse testing without a scratch. An excellent pan, at an excellent price, that you’ll never have to replace.

Lodge Classic Cast Iron Skillet, 12"

$33.31*

Lodge Classic Cast Iron Skillet, 12"

Our old winner arrived with the slickest preseasoned interior and only got better. Broad enough to cook two big steaks, it browned foods deeply, and its thorough seasoning ensured that our acidic pan sauce picked up no off-flavors. Though its handle is short, the pan has a helper handle that made lifting easy. It survived abuse testing without a scratch. An excellent pan, at an excellent price, that you’ll never have to replace.

Winner
Recommended

Lodge Classic Cast Iron Skillet, 12"

$33.31*

Lodge Classic Cast Iron Skillet, 12"

Our old winner arrived with the slickest preseasoned interior and only got better. Broad enough to cook two big steaks, it browned foods deeply, and its thorough seasoning ensured that our acidic pan sauce picked up no off-flavors. Though its handle is short, the pan has a helper handle that made lifting easy. It survived abuse testing without a scratch. An excellent pan, at an excellent price, that you’ll never have to replace.

Lodge Classic Cast Iron Skillet, 12"

$33.31*

Lodge Classic Cast Iron Skillet, 12"

Our old winner arrived with the slickest preseasoned interior and only got better. Broad enough to cook two big steaks, it browned foods deeply, and its thorough seasoning ensured that our acidic pan sauce picked up no off-flavors. Though its handle is short, the pan has a helper handle that made lifting easy. It survived abuse testing without a scratch. An excellent pan, at an excellent price, that you’ll never have to replace.

Winner
Recommended

Lodge Classic Cast Iron Skillet, 12"

$33.31*

Lodge Classic Cast Iron Skillet, 12"

Our old winner arrived with the slickest preseasoned interior and only got better. Broad enough to cook two big steaks, it browned foods deeply, and its thorough seasoning ensured that our acidic pan sauce picked up no off-flavors. Though its handle is short, the pan has a helper handle that made lifting easy. It survived abuse testing without a scratch. An excellent pan, at an excellent price, that you’ll never have to replace.

Lodge Classic Cast Iron Skillet, 12"

$33.31*

Lodge Classic Cast Iron Skillet, 12"

Our old winner arrived with the slickest preseasoned interior and only got better. Broad enough to cook two big steaks, it browned foods deeply, and its thorough seasoning ensured that our acidic pan sauce picked up no off-flavors. Though its handle is short, the pan has a helper handle that made lifting easy. It survived abuse testing without a scratch. An excellent pan, at an excellent price, that you’ll never have to replace.