Just before the lunch rush, Nong Poonsukwattana greets me at her namesake Nong's Khao Man Gai in downtown Portland, Oregon. Giant pots of whole chickens bubble in the open kitchen, and the aromas of ginger, garlic, and floral pandan leaves fill the air in the tiny restaurant. The focus here is khao man gai, a classic, comforting chicken and rice dish that's filled with flavor; Nong has been making and selling her version since 2009, when she opened her first food cart in town.
Nong comes from a family of cooks in Bangkok, Thailand. She grew up watching her mother work 16-hour days in restaurant kitchens, her arms scarred and blistered from hot cooking grease. “To be honest, I never thought of opening a restaurant,” Nong tells me. “I always imagined a different life. Like working in an office.” As a child, Nong applied herself in school, where she was often at the top of her class. Looking back, she acknowledges that her academic success was a “cover-up” for a difficult home life.
But Nong learned to cook from her mother, who taught her the foundational techniques. “My mom grew up with her grandma, so her side is old-school; everything we cooked was from scratch. Even coconut milk would come from whole, green coconuts,” she says. As the youngest in the family, Nong was often delegated the laborious tasks of extracting the coconut milk and pounding the curry paste with a mortar and pestle. “My mom was the chef, my sister was like the sous chef, and I was always the one who had to do the prep.” By 13, Nong was working alongside her mother in restaurants.