Equipment Clips

Could we get Cadillac performance at a bargain price?

Trying to pull fritters from bubbling oil with a spoon or a pair of tongs may leave you with mangled pastries, an oily mess, burns—or all three. The best tool for the job is a type of skimmer that chefs call a “spider.”

Since our favorite 13 by 9-inch Pyrex dish can’t go under the broiler, we looked for one that could.

We demanded a lot: smooth emulsifications, airy whips, velvety purees, easy cleaning, quiet motors, comfort—and a bargain price. Were we dreaming?

All of the contestants strained pudding and berry sauce well enough, but only one survived our durability tests.