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Equipment Ratings

Is there any real difference between one wooden spoon and another? In a word: yes. We used 10 models to brown 10 batches of beef and stir pots of thick vegetable curry. Then we tried bending them, exerting just a little pressure.

We found substantial spoons that were just too big, with hulking handles that made long stirring tiresome. Spoons can also be too light; two of our models snapped under light pressure. In the end, here’s what we learned we want in a wooden spoon: a broad bowl that covers a lot of surface area and can reach into the corners of a pot; thin edges (they scrape more effectively than thick); and a handle that’s strong but not bulky. Our winner’s form-fitting handle, broad bowl, sturdy yet lightweight construction, and protective mineral oil finish (which minimizes odor absorption and staining) revealed that modest details can improve a kitchen classic.

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