Ready Rice
It’s called “ready rice” for a reason: Microwave it for less than two minutes, right in the package it comes in, and it’s ready to eat. No question it’s fast, but does it taste good? Is it acceptable as a last-minute side dish? We tasted five national brands of white ready rice: three long grain, one medium grain, and one blend of long- and short-grain rice.
Long-grain rice contains the most amylose, a starch that makes rice less sticky when cooked, a quality our tasters preferred. Our two favorites, both long grain, were parboiled, also known as “converted” (Uncle Ben brand’s trademarked term for parboiled). This precooking process steams rice kernels in their husks and gelatinizes the starches, which makes the grains firm, smooth, and less sticky. Parboiling also turns rice light tan, which we noticed but didn’t mind.
Two brands tasted “plasticky.” Both add glucono delta lactone (GDL), which forms gluconic acid in water to lower the pH and prevent bacterial growth as well as lower the gelatinization temperature of the rice so it cooks quickly and evenly. Unfortunately, GDL also produces a sour, metallic taste.
Our winning ready rice did not add GDL and had a leg up in the flavor department: It was the only brand to add salt and had the most fat per serving, a likely source of its “buttery” taste. It's fluffy and fast, but also nearly three times as expensive per serving as conventionally cooked rice. Will we quit making rice the usual way? No, but our winner was a surprisingly close second choice in a blind taste-off in which we sampled the five ready rices alongside regular long-grain rice; we’d consider keeping our winning ready rice in the pantry for busy weeknights.
| Product Tested | Origin | Price* | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Highly Recommended | |||
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Columela Extra Virgin Olive OilOur favorite premium extra-virgin olive oil from a previous tasting, Columela is composed of a blend of intense Picual, mild Hojiblanca, Ocal, and Arbequina olives. This oil took top honors for its fruity flavor and excellent balance. Tasters praised its “big olive aroma, big olive taste” with a “buttery” flavor that is “sweet” and “full,” with a “peppery finish.” One taster said: “It’s very green and fresh—like a squeezed olive.” Another simply wrote: “Fantastic.” |
Spain | $19 for 17 oz |
| Recommended | |||
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Lucini Italia Premium Select Extra Virgin Olive OilTasters noted this oil’s flavor was “much deeper than the other samples,” describing it as “fruity, with a slight peppery finish,” “buttery undertones,” and a “clean, green taste” that was “aromatic, with a good balance.” “It has the flavor that some good EVOOs have,” said one admiring taster. |
Italy | $19.99 for 500 ml ($39.98 per liter) |
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Colavita Extra Virgin Olive OilVirtually tied for second place, this oil was deemed “round and buttery,” with a “light body” and flavor that was “briny and fruity,” “very fine and smooth,” and “almost herbal,” with “great balance.” “Good olive flavor. I could smell it and taste it,” approved one taster. In a word, “pleasant.” |
Italy | $17.99 for 750 ml ($23.98 per liter) |
| Recommended with Reservations | |||
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Bertolli Extra Virgin Olive OilA clear step down from the top oils, tasters noted “overall mild” flavor and “very little aroma,” with only a “hint of green olive” and a “hint of spiciness at the end.” In pasta, it was initially “not complex,” but gradually “bloomed in your mouth.” Overall, it was “worthy of a second bite.” |
Italy, Greece, Spain, and Tunisia | $12.49 for 750 ml ($16.65 per liter) |
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Filippo Berio Extra Virgin Olive OilWhile some tasters found this oil “sweet” and “buttery” with “medium body” and “slight spice at the end,” others complained that it had “zero olive flavor” and was “so floral it’s almost like eating perfume”; still others noted a “bitter” aftertaste. In pasta, it was “extremely mild” to the point of being “boring.” |
Italy, Greece, Spain, and Tunisia | $10.99 for 750 ml ($14.65 per liter) |
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Goya Extra Virgin Olive OilComments: The best comments tasters could muster were “mild” and “neutral.” Some liked it on pasta (though one called it “Snoozeville”), but complaints were myriad: “metallic,” “soapy,” “briny,” “hints of dirt.” Carped one taster, “I can’t imagine what is in here, but they have a nerve calling it EVOO.” |
Spain | $13.99 for 1 liter |
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