Chicken Breasts
In a society obsessed with weight, it is not surprising that boneless, skinless chicken breasts are a standard in many home kitchens. No fat, no fuss, and, unfortunately, no flavor. We've come up with countless recipes to add zip to these otherwise boring birds, but we never stopped to look at the chicken itself. Is there a difference in flavor among the popular brands? Do terms like "organic," "free range," "natural," or "kosher" have any real bearing on the quality of the meat?
To find out, we gathered six brands of boneless skinless chicken breasts, broiled them without seasoning, and had 20 tasters sample the chickens side-by-side. Among the contenders were one kosher bird, two "natural," and one "free range." The remaining two were just plain "chicken."
The U.S. Department of Agriculture defines "natural" as "a product containing no artificial ingredients or added color and [that] is only minimally processed," with a "process" being something that "does not fundamentally alter the raw product." In the case of chicken, it means that the bird was given no antibiotics or hormones and was fed a vegetarian diet. "Free range" means exactly what it says: the birds are not confined to small cages but are allowed to roam freely. Some people find that this excess motion yields tougher meat, but our tasters did not find this to be the case.
The only kosher bird in this tasting won points for its superior flavor, acquired by means of none other than salt. Koshering involves coating the chicken with salt to draw out any impurities; this process, similar to brining, results in moist, salty meat (for this reason we do not recommend brining kosher birds). Last-place (and lowest priced) finishers were downgraded for poor texture and unnatural flavor. Tasters were also put off by the brash yellow color of the birds.
In the end, it seems that more money can buy you a better bird and, many would argue, a better-for-you bird (kosher birds are also all-natural and contain no hormones or antibiotics). As for lower-priced supermarket staples and store brands, a cheaper price can indicate a lower-quality product.
| Product Tested | Origin | Price* | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Highly Recommended | |||
|
Columela Extra Virgin Olive OilOur favorite premium extra-virgin olive oil from a previous tasting, Columela is composed of a blend of intense Picual, mild Hojiblanca, Ocal, and Arbequina olives. This oil took top honors for its fruity flavor and excellent balance. Tasters praised its “big olive aroma, big olive taste” with a “buttery” flavor that is “sweet” and “full,” with a “peppery finish.” One taster said: “It’s very green and fresh—like a squeezed olive.” Another simply wrote: “Fantastic.” |
Spain | $19 for 17 oz |
| Recommended | |||
|
Lucini Italia Premium Select Extra Virgin Olive OilTasters noted this oil’s flavor was “much deeper than the other samples,” describing it as “fruity, with a slight peppery finish,” “buttery undertones,” and a “clean, green taste” that was “aromatic, with a good balance.” “It has the flavor that some good EVOOs have,” said one admiring taster. |
Italy | $19.99 for 500 ml ($39.98 per liter) |
|
Colavita Extra Virgin Olive OilVirtually tied for second place, this oil was deemed “round and buttery,” with a “light body” and flavor that was “briny and fruity,” “very fine and smooth,” and “almost herbal,” with “great balance.” “Good olive flavor. I could smell it and taste it,” approved one taster. In a word, “pleasant.” |
Italy | $17.99 for 750 ml ($23.98 per liter) |
| Recommended with Reservations | |||
|
Bertolli Extra Virgin Olive OilA clear step down from the top oils, tasters noted “overall mild” flavor and “very little aroma,” with only a “hint of green olive” and a “hint of spiciness at the end.” In pasta, it was initially “not complex,” but gradually “bloomed in your mouth.” Overall, it was “worthy of a second bite.” |
Italy, Greece, Spain, and Tunisia | $12.49 for 750 ml ($16.65 per liter) |
|
Filippo Berio Extra Virgin Olive OilWhile some tasters found this oil “sweet” and “buttery” with “medium body” and “slight spice at the end,” others complained that it had “zero olive flavor” and was “so floral it’s almost like eating perfume”; still others noted a “bitter” aftertaste. In pasta, it was “extremely mild” to the point of being “boring.” |
Italy, Greece, Spain, and Tunisia | $10.99 for 750 ml ($14.65 per liter) |
|
Goya Extra Virgin Olive OilComments: The best comments tasters could muster were “mild” and “neutral.” Some liked it on pasta (though one called it “Snoozeville”), but complaints were myriad: “metallic,” “soapy,” “briny,” “hints of dirt.” Carped one taster, “I can’t imagine what is in here, but they have a nerve calling it EVOO.” |
Spain | $13.99 for 1 liter |
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