Perfect Popovers

From

December/January 2009

Perfect Popovers

We chose bread flour for its high protein content, which gave our Perfect Popovers the highest rise and crispest crust. Resting the batter for an hour before baking gave the proteins in the flour time to relax and prevented the popovers from setting up too quickly. We used low-fat milk instead of whole milk for a higher-rising, moist product. Heating the milk allowed the batter to come together with less mixing, which was key to avoiding an overworked batter and tough popovers.

We had the best results baking the popovers first at high heat to initiate the rise, then turning the oven down so the interiors would be done at the same time as the crust. To prevent the popovers from collapsing as they cooled, we poked a hole in the top of each one when they were almost done cooking, and then again as they cooled. This allowed the steam to escape and kept the crisp structure intact.

Makes 6 popovers

Greasing the pans with shortening ensures the best release, but cooking spray may be substituted; do not use butter. To gauge the popovers’ progress without opening the oven door, use the oven light during baking. Bread flour makes for the highest and sturdiest popovers, but an equal amount of all-purpose flour may be substituted.

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