Synthetic Spoons
Although they may look like they are made of meltable plastic, Exoglass cooking spoons, a product of France, are actually a blend of resin and fiberglass that makes them heat resistant up to 430 degrees. Unlike wooden spoons, which must be washed by hand, have a tendency to absorb odors and colors, and can split over time after repeated soaks in water, Exoglass spoons are quite durable and offer several advantages. First, they can be thrown into the dishwasher without melting or splintering. Second, being nonporous (unlike wood), they don't stain or retain food particles, odors, or bacteria, which makes them a good choice when melting or caramelizing sugar (food particles can cause the heating sugar to crystallize rather than liquefy) or when stirring slow-simmering, stain-prone foods such as chili, curry, and tomato sauce.
Such merits notwithstanding, the Exoglass spoon cannot entirely replace the wooden spoon, which we still find useful when trying to gauge the consistency of sauces via the "coating the back of the spoon" test (the slick surface of the Exoglass makes this more difficult) and to scrape up fond (browned bits) from the bottom of a pan (flat-bottomed spoons are the best choice here).
So we're holding on to our wooden spoons, but we wouldn't mind adding an Exoglass spoon or two to our utensil drawer—especially given that we found one for a modest price.
- Good:
- ★★★
- Fair:
- ★★
- Poor:
- ★
- N/A:
- ----
| Product Tested | Performance | Comfort | Price* | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Highly Recommended | ||||
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Victorinox (formerly Victorinox Forschner) 6-inch Straight Boning Knife: FlexibleThe nonslip grip and narrow, straight blade let testers remove the smallest bones with precision and complete comfort. Perfectly balanced with enough flexibility to maneuver around tight joints. The low price was a bonus. |
★★★ | ★★★ | $19.95 |
| Recommended | ||||
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Wüsthof Classic Boning KnifeHefty in weight, this knife was a solid performer when removing poultry bones, and the handle was easy to grip, even when covered in chicken fat. Piercing silver skin was a challenge since the tip wasn’t sharp enough and the long narrow blade produced slightly jagged cuts. |
★★ | ★★★ | $99.95 |
| Recommended with Reservations | ||||
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Mundial Boning Knife: FlexibleThe sharp tip performed well when removing silver skin, but it was too flexible when maneuvering around poultry joints, leaving testers feeling a lack of control. The heavy handle was slightly unbalanced and became slippery once covered in poultry fat. |
★★ | ★★ | $19.95 |
| Not Recommended | ||||
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Shun Gokujo Filet KnifeDesigned to replicate a samurai blade, this expensive knife was a disappointment. It struggled to pierce the silver skin, although long cuts were smooth and even. Minimal flexibility and extreme curve got in the way when maneuvering around joints. The smooth handle was hard to grip and slippery. |
★★ | ★ | $179.95 |
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MAC Boning Knife—Chef SeriesThe large, cumbersome handle reminded testers of an outdoors knife for fishing and hunting. The blade was too wide to maneuver around joints and it struggled to pierce silver skin. Unlike other knives, this boning knife could only slice in one direction, making intricate cuts around joints difficult. |
★ | ★★ | $34.95 |
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Messermeister San Moritz Elite Flexible Boning KnifeThe blade was so flexible it led to erratic cuttings; testers said the knife was hard to control. The blade was not sturdy enough to maneuver around joints and the lightweight handle felt flimsy and unbalanced. |
★ | ★ | $53.60 |
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