Cake Strips
Perfectly level, evenly baked cakes can elude even the most practiced bakers. Cake strips, also known as magic strips, are engineered to correct uneven baking by applying an insulating layer around the outside of a cake pan. Without insulation from the oven’s heat, the edges bake more quickly while the center tends to dome, crack, or rise quickly before collapsing. And while cake knives and other tools can level off cakes meant for layering, there’s no remedy for an underdone, gummy interior if the edges have already dried out.
We wrapped four brands of cake strips, made from silicone or aluminized fabric that’s been soaked in water, around 8-inch square, 9-inch round, and 13 by 9-inch pans filled with cake batter, and compared them with cakes wrapped with homemade cake strips: damp cheesecloth or newspaper folded into 2-inch strips of aluminum foil and tied with twine. We looked for cracked, dark centers on our Classic Gingerbread Cake (Jan./Feb. 2011) and high, domed centers on Fluffy Yellow Layer Cake (March/April 2008). And just to see if they could accomplish even baking from the edges all the way to the middle of a large sheet cake, we baked yellow cakes in 13 by 9-inch metal pans fitted with each of the strips. Then we baked cakes without strips and compared them all (a grand total of 26) side by side to see which ones passed our test.
Even Strip, Even Baking
One of the biggest factors determining the success or failure of a cake strip: how evenly it wrapped around a pan. A strip too short to reach around the pan’s perimeter had to be doubled up with a second band, and anywhere the pieces overlapped led to uneven baking. For example, one product encircles a 9-inch cake round without overlapping, and the cakes from that vessel emerged evenly baked and level. But when we overlapped a pair of these strips to fit around an 8-inch square pan, the gingerbread it contained rose almost ¼ inch higher on the side with strips overlapping. And it wasn’t just that brand; strips from other manufacturers that had to double up and overlap led to the same results, despite reassurance two of the packages that overlapping wouldn’t interfere with effectiveness. We had much better results with a silicone band and our homemade strips. The former snaps onto a round or square pan like a rubber band, while the latter can be fashioned to any length, meaning that overlapping is never an issue. In both cases, the insulated rings ensured evenly baked yellow cakes; Our winning cake strip produced almost-perfect gingerbread, save for a slightly domed center.
No Fuss, No Muss
Cake strips that were easy to affix without slipping or falling off in the transfer to the oven had a clear advantage. We had no patience when it came to fiddling with the tight cross-turning clips on the one product, which resembled tricky paper clips and took nimble fingers to open. Worse, the thin, sharp pins that fastened other strips had to be pushed through the strips’ thick fabric with some force, making it easy to stick testers’ fingers. Velcro tabs on the one product were handy for belting around 13 by 9-inch pans; anything smaller and the tabs were too short for the strips to meet and overlap. In fact, this was the one instance when our winner's silicone band disappointed; though it requires no wriggling or pinning, and soaking it for a minute or two under hot water makes it pliable enough to stretch around a 9-inch square pan (it shrinks back to original size after cooling), it won’t fit anything larger.
A Little Goes a Long Way
But properly dressing the pans was only half the battle. When it came to actually baking with these bands, some of them insulated too well, turning gingerbread into steamed pudding and yellow cakes soft and spongy, even on the sides. The key here: water retention. Three of the four strips were made from aluminized fabric and came with instructions for presoaking followed by gentle squeezing to remove excess water. But depending on the thickness of the strip, that still left a lot of moisture.
To see how much water we were adding, we weighed each set dry and then soaked, gently squeezing them (as instructed) before weighing them again. Two brand's strips were still swelled with water after baking, as evidenced by the steam they gave off after the pans came out of the oven and by the spongy, pale edges on our cakes. But our homemade cake strips, which weighed just half an ounce more when dampened, yielded perfectly risen cakes with no cracks or shadows and with interiors that were consistently moist from edges to centers.
Given that homemade strips can be made for pennies on the dollar and custom-cut for any size pan, it’s our go-to choice. But for serious bakers who want to keep a durable, reusable strip at the ready, our winner makes the baking process a piece of cake.
- Good:
- ★★★
- Fair:
- ★★
- Poor:
- ★
- N/A:
- ----
| Product Tested | Performance | Comfort | Price* | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Highly Recommended | ||||
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Victorinox (formerly Victorinox Forschner) 6-inch Straight Boning Knife: FlexibleThe nonslip grip and narrow, straight blade let testers remove the smallest bones with precision and complete comfort. Perfectly balanced with enough flexibility to maneuver around tight joints. The low price was a bonus. |
★★★ | ★★★ | $19.95 |
| Recommended | ||||
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Wüsthof Classic Boning KnifeHefty in weight, this knife was a solid performer when removing poultry bones, and the handle was easy to grip, even when covered in chicken fat. Piercing silver skin was a challenge since the tip wasn’t sharp enough and the long narrow blade produced slightly jagged cuts. |
★★ | ★★★ | $99.95 |
| Recommended with Reservations | ||||
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Mundial Boning Knife: FlexibleThe sharp tip performed well when removing silver skin, but it was too flexible when maneuvering around poultry joints, leaving testers feeling a lack of control. The heavy handle was slightly unbalanced and became slippery once covered in poultry fat. |
★★ | ★★ | $19.95 |
| Not Recommended | ||||
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Shun Gokujo Filet KnifeDesigned to replicate a samurai blade, this expensive knife was a disappointment. It struggled to pierce the silver skin, although long cuts were smooth and even. Minimal flexibility and extreme curve got in the way when maneuvering around joints. The smooth handle was hard to grip and slippery. |
★★ | ★ | $179.95 |
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MAC Boning Knife—Chef SeriesThe large, cumbersome handle reminded testers of an outdoors knife for fishing and hunting. The blade was too wide to maneuver around joints and it struggled to pierce silver skin. Unlike other knives, this boning knife could only slice in one direction, making intricate cuts around joints difficult. |
★ | ★★ | $34.95 |
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Messermeister San Moritz Elite Flexible Boning KnifeThe blade was so flexible it led to erratic cuttings; testers said the knife was hard to control. The blade was not sturdy enough to maneuver around joints and the lightweight handle felt flimsy and unbalanced. |
★ | ★ | $53.60 |
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