Brioche Pans
Traditional loaves of brioche are round with fluted sides and a slightly conical shape. We tested four large brioche pans, 8 to 8½ inches in diameter, made of shiny tinned steel, nonstick-coated steel, and silicone, priced from $10 to $16.51, rating them on handling and release, browning, crumb structure, and the shape of the finished loaves. We found that each 8-inch brioche pan held the equivalent of one loaf pan. All released the breads easily (after being coated with vegetable oil spray) and were simple to clean. Any complaints were mainly quibbles: The loaf baked in the nonstick pan was a tad too dark; the tin model (which had the shallowest sides) produced loaves that were flatter than we liked; and the loaf baked in the silicone pan browned slightly unevenly across the base.
Our favorite pan was a French import with a traditional shiny finish. It baked and released tall, perfect golden loaves with flawless, airy crumbs. Best of all, it was the cheapest pan in the lineup.
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TASTE TEST
Flour -
TASTE TEST
Whole Wheat Flour -
TASTE TEST
Unsalted Butter
- Good:
- ★★★
- Fair:
- ★★
- Poor:
- ★
- N/A:
- ----
| Product Tested | Performance | Comfort | Price* | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Highly Recommended | ||||
 |
Victorinox (formerly Victorinox Forschner) 6-inch Straight Boning Knife: FlexibleThe nonslip grip and narrow, straight blade let testers remove the smallest bones with precision and complete comfort. Perfectly balanced with enough flexibility to maneuver around tight joints. The low price was a bonus. |
★★★ | ★★★ | $19.95 |
| Recommended | ||||
 |
Wüsthof Classic Boning KnifeHefty in weight, this knife was a solid performer when removing poultry bones, and the handle was easy to grip, even when covered in chicken fat. Piercing silver skin was a challenge since the tip wasn’t sharp enough and the long narrow blade produced slightly jagged cuts. |
★★ | ★★★ | $99.95 |
| Recommended with Reservations | ||||
 |
Mundial Boning Knife: FlexibleThe sharp tip performed well when removing silver skin, but it was too flexible when maneuvering around poultry joints, leaving testers feeling a lack of control. The heavy handle was slightly unbalanced and became slippery once covered in poultry fat. |
★★ | ★★ | $19.95 |
| Not Recommended | ||||
 |
Shun Gokujo Filet KnifeDesigned to replicate a samurai blade, this expensive knife was a disappointment. It struggled to pierce the silver skin, although long cuts were smooth and even. Minimal flexibility and extreme curve got in the way when maneuvering around joints. The smooth handle was hard to grip and slippery. |
★★ | ★ | $179.95 |
 |
MAC Boning Knife—Chef SeriesThe large, cumbersome handle reminded testers of an outdoors knife for fishing and hunting. The blade was too wide to maneuver around joints and it struggled to pierce silver skin. Unlike other knives, this boning knife could only slice in one direction, making intricate cuts around joints difficult. |
★ | ★★ | $34.95 |
 |
Messermeister San Moritz Elite Flexible Boning KnifeThe blade was so flexible it led to erratic cuttings; testers said the knife was hard to control. The blade was not sturdy enough to maneuver around joints and the lightweight handle felt flimsy and unbalanced. |
★ | ★ | $53.60 |
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